Montevideo

This city often takes travelers by surprise. It's the capital of Uruguay, but it frequently feels more like a sprawling, laid-back beach town with a serious dose of history. The vibe here is wonderfully unpretentious and tranquil; it's a city for wandering along the water, enjoying long lunches, and simply slowing down.

Montevideo stands out as one of South America's most underrated capitals. First, there's the Rambla, a nearly 14-mile coastal promenade that's the city's heart and soul. Travelers can spend hours just walking, people-watching, and seeing the city's life unfold against the backdrop of the Río de la Plata. The city also has a fascinating blend of crumbling colonial architecture and grand Art Deco buildings, especially in neighborhoods like Ciudad Vieja and Centro. The city's pace of life is a real clincher. It’s a major city where you don't feel rushed, where taking two hours for a coffee or sitting in a park with a book feels like the main event. Plus, the access to fantastic, grass-fed beef is a carnivore's dream.

Uruguayans, often called "Orientales," are generally reserved but incredibly warm and polite once you engage with them. There's a certain calm formality to interactions. Spanish is the official language, but it's the Rioplatense dialect, similar to what you'd hear in Buenos Aires, with its distinct "sh" sound for 'y' and 'll'. Don't be surprised to see almost everyone carrying a mate gourd and a thermos of hot water; it's a huge part of the social culture, though it's not really something you ask to share unless offered.

The food scene is dominated by one thing: meat. The asado (barbecue) is a national treasure. The Mercado del Puerto is an iconic old market hall, visually impressive and historically significant, but be aware that it has largely become a tourist trap with often overpriced food and can be a hotspot for pickpockets, especially on weekends. For a more authentic and better-value parrilla experience, seek out local neighborhood parrillas like La Otra in Pocitos or La Pulpería in Punta Carretas, or explore other food markets such as Mercado Williman or Mercado Ferrando. The signature dish you absolutely must try is the chivito, a monster of a steak sandwich loaded with ham, cheese, bacon, egg, and more. For something sweet, anything with dulce de leche is a winner. Dining out is generally not cheap; a good steak dinner at a mid-range spot could cost around $30-50 USD.

The infrastructure can feel a bit dated, but it's functional. The internet is surprisingly good, with widely available fiber-optic connections, which is a relief for getting work done. Power is stable, and the tap water is generally safe to drink. The public transport is all bus-based; there's no metro. The system is extensive, but can be confusing without an app like Moovit to navigate routes. The city is generally clean, but you'll notice a distinct lack of public investment in some areas, with cracked sidewalks and buildings that have seen better days.

You'll almost certainly fly into Carrasco General Cesáreo L. Berisso International Airport (MVD), located about 40 minutes from the city center. The airport is modern, clean, and efficient. To get into town, your best bet for convenience and price is a ride-hailing app like Uber or Cabify, which costs around $18-20. Taxis are also available but can be slightly more expensive. For a budget option, several public buses run from just outside the terminal to the city center for only a couple of dollars, though it takes about an hour.

Montevideo's central areas are very walkable. For longer distances, the bus system is your main option. You really need to get a STM card from a local "Abitab" or "RedPagos" store; you'll typically need to show your ID for purchase. It makes fares cheaper (about 46 UYU vs 56 UYU in cash) and allows for transfers. To ride, you have to flag the bus down, or it won't stop. Ride-hailing services like Uber and Cabify are widely available, affordable, and a great option for getting around at night. Taxis are also plentiful and safe.

Montevideo is generally considered safer than many other South American capitals, but it's crucial to "exercise a high degree of caution" due to crime. Petty crime like pickpocketing and bag snatching is the main concern, especially in crowded downtown areas like Avenida 18 de Julio, Plaza Independencia, and in the Old City (Ciudad Vieja) and the port area. Travelers are advised to be particularly careful in Ciudad Vieja after dark, as it can feel deserted and some streets are poorly lit. A specific local issue is theft from cars, both parked and stopped at traffic lights; criminals might smash a window to grab a bag from the seat, so keep valuables out of sight and doors locked. Armed robberies, including those targeting restaurants, do occur, particularly late at night in areas like Pocitos. While serious crimes are often concentrated in specific neighborhoods away from main tourist zones, you need to maintain the same level of vigilance here as you would in any other major city.