Introduction & Vibe
Alright, let's talk about San José. Many travelers treat it as a fly-in, fly-out point on their way to Costa Rica's beaches and jungles, and that's often a mistake. "Chepe," as locals call it, has a chaotic charm. It's a city of contrasts—gritty in some parts, surprisingly sophisticated in others, with a tangible energy that’s all about that "Pura Vida" life, even amidst the urban hustle.
Why Visit?
San José often exceeds expectations. First, the food scene in neighborhoods like Barrio Escalante is genuinely exciting and goes way beyond the standard tourist fare. Second, the city is a fantastic hub for incredible day trips to volcanoes and coffee plantations, letting you mix city life with nature. Third, the museums, especially the Gold and Jade Museums, are world-class and provide a deep appreciation for the country's pre-Columbian history. It's a city with a real soul, not just a transit zone.
Best Neighborhoods To Stay In
Other neighborhoods to know
These are the top 4 neighborhoods for most tourists, but San José is a sprawling city, and you'll definitely see other district names pop up. It's not that these other places are bad, but they often aren't a good fit for a tourist's home base. Where you stay sets the tone for your trip, so here's an honest take on a few other spots you might be curious about, and why visiting rather than staying is suggested, or for whom they might be suitable.
- Santa AnaLocated west of Escazú, Santa Ana shares a similar upscale, suburban feel but is generally more laid-back. It's a popular spot for long-term expats and families seeking a high quality of life with modern services and a drier climate. While it has good restaurants and amenities, its spread-out nature means a car is almost essential, and it lacks the concentrated tourist attractions or distinct city vibe that makes a primary base for most visitors to San José. It's best for extended stays or those prioritizing a quiet, modern suburban lifestyle over city exploration.
- PavasThis is a massive and very mixed district. While it has some upscale areas and the US Embassy, large parts of Pavas struggle with high crime rates and gang activity. For a tourist, accidentally ending up in the wrong part of it, especially at night, is a real risk to avoid.
- HatilloThis is a huge, densely populated collection of working-class residential neighborhoods south of the city center. There are virtually no tourist attractions, the traffic is famously bad, and it has a reputation for higher crime rates. It’s simply not set up for visitors.
- MercedWhile it’s very central and home to the fantastic Mercado Central, Merced is also one of the city's grittiest districts. It contains the infamous 'Coca-Cola' bus terminal area, which is a major hub for petty crime and feels very unsafe after dark. It's a district to visit cautiously during the day and leave before nightfall.
- ZapoteZapote is mostly known for government buildings and the huge fairgrounds that host the massive festival after Christmas. Outside of that specific week, it lacks charm and is primarily a traffic-heavy transit area with little to offer tourists in terms of restaurants, culture, or walkability.
- DesamparadosLocated south of the city, this is another large residential canton that struggles with a reputation for crime and gang activity in certain areas. There's no compelling reason for a tourist to stay here, as it's far from the main sights and can be unsafe.
People
The people here, known as "Ticos," are the heart of the "Pura Vida" slogan. They're incredibly friendly, patient, and generally welcoming. While Spanish is the official language, English is widely spoken in touristy areas, hotels, and restaurants, so getting by is pretty easy. The culture is laid-back but also hardworking; there's a real sense of national pride that's quite infectious.
Top Highlights
Food Scene Highlights
The food scene is a definite highlight! You absolutely must try a casado for lunch—it's a massive plate with rice, beans, salad, plantains, and your choice of meat or fish. Another must-have is gallo pinto, the national breakfast dish of rice and beans. The Mercado Central is an amazing, chaotic place to try traditional food at a "soda" (a small, local eatery). For something more modern, Barrio Escalante is packed with incredible, innovative restaurants. Expect to pay $5-8 for a meal at a soda, while a nice dinner can be $20-40.
Infrastructure
San José's infrastructure can be a challenge. The traffic is legendary, and driving in the city center is a chaotic experience you should avoid if possible. Internet speeds are generally decent, especially in tourist areas and coworking spaces, but don't expect fiber-optic perfection everywhere. Power outages can happen, particularly during the rainy season. It's a city that's developing fast, but the infrastructure sometimes struggles to keep up. A proposed electric train connecting San José to Heredia, Cartago, and Alajuela is in the works, but widespread improvements are still some time away.
Accommodations
Getting There
You'll most likely fly into Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO), which is actually located in the nearby city of Alajuela, not San José itself. From SJO, the easiest way to the city is an Uber or an official, airport-sanctioned orange taxi. An official taxi to the city center costs around 15,000 CRC (approximately $25 USD) and takes about 25-45 minutes depending on traffic. While paying in USD is possible, you might be charged a slightly higher flat rate, such as $30 USD. For a cheaper option, the TUASA public bus runs frequently from the airport to the city center for about 670 CRC (approx. $1 USD) and is a viable choice if you're traveling light, taking about 37 minutes.
Getting Around
Downtown San José is surprisingly walkable, and you'll find yourself exploring much of it on foot. For longer distances, Uber is your best friend—it's reliable, generally cheaper than taxis, and widely used, despite its complex legal status in Costa Rica. The public bus system is extensive and cheap but can be confusing for a first-timer. The buses are red and stop at designated "paradas." It's best to ask a local or your hotel for the correct route. Currently, there's no unified transit card, so you pay the driver in cash (small change is essential). However, a legislative proposal to phase out cash payments for public buses in the Greater Metropolitan Area within three years has cleared a crucial hurdle as of August 2025, signaling a future shift to electronic payments.
Safety
San José has a reputation for being unsafe, and it's not for nothing. You need to be smart and vigilant in this city. Theft, including pickpocketing, bag snatching, and sometimes violent robberies, are the main concern, especially in crowded areas like the Central Market, on public buses, and along Central Avenue. In 2024, over 6,300 tourist-related crimes, primarily thefts and assaults, were reported in Costa Rica, with San José's central region being a critical area for petty theft. It's wise to avoid wearing flashy jewelry and keep your phone out of sight on the street. At night, avoid walking alone, especially in unlit areas or neighborhoods far from the center, and always take an Uber, even for short distances. Some areas around the Coca-Cola bus terminal and parts of the central core can be particularly sketchy after dark. The U.S. State Department issued a Level 2 Travel Advisory ("Exercise Increased Caution") for Costa Rica in December 2024 due to crime. In February 2025, the U.S. Embassy warned of security incidents near Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO) on a common route to Santa Ana, where assailants have thrown stones at vehicles to force them to stop and rob drivers. Travelers are advised to use caution, consider alternate routes, and avoid stopping if attacked. It's not about being scared, just being aware and cautious.
Dealbreakers
When to Visit
Sample Itinerary
Packing List
FAQs
How-To Guides
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Resources & Further Reading
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I've made this guide with every attempt to be as accurate as possible; however, the world is a dynamic place, so there is a chance that something here needs updating. If you've spotted something in this guide that could use an update, please let me know! Your feedback helps tremendously. Alternatively, if you found something super helpful or you have a great tip to add, I'd love to hear that too!