Tbilisi

Tbilisi is a city full of surprises and energy. As Georgia's capital, it mixes old stone churches with modern buildings and glass bridges. The vibe is a mix of European and Asian influences, and once you get here, it's hard to leave.

Travelers often come for the food and wine, and those alone are worth the trip. Georgia stands as one of the oldest wine regions in the world, offering incredible, unique wines at a fraction of prices found elsewhere. Then there's the food – khachapuri (cheese bread) and khinkali (soup dumplings) represent just the beginning of a rich, comforting, and delicious cuisine. Beyond the feast, the city is a photographer's dream with its crumbling courtyards and ornate balconies. It's also remarkably affordable, allowing your money to stretch further, and the burgeoning creative and techno scene gives it a modern, energetic pulse that often surprises first-time visitors.

Georgians are consistently described as some of the most hospitable people you'll encounter. They embrace a concept called "supra," a traditional feast, which truly speaks to their generous spirit. While the older generation often speaks Russian as a second language, younger people in the city center are increasingly fluent in English. Don't be put off by what might seem like a stern exterior; a smile and a simple "gamarjoba" (hello) usually breaks the ice. Georgians are proud of their culture and history and are genuinely happy to share it with visitors.

The food here is a revelation. It’s hearty, flavorful, and utilizes a ton of fresh herbs, walnuts, and cheeses. Absolute must-try dishes include Khinkali, savory soup dumplings (eat them with your hands!), and Khachapuri Adjaruli, a boat-shaped bread filled with molten cheese, a raw egg, and butter. For something different, try Pkhali, which are pâtés made from minced vegetables, often with walnuts and pomegranate seeds. A meal at a local restaurant is very affordable; you can enjoy a feast for $10-15 USD. Many hidden gems are small, family-run places where the menu might only be in Georgian.

Tbilisi's infrastructure is a mixed bag, but it certainly functions. The internet is surprisingly fast and reliable. However, the power can occasionally flicker, especially in older buildings. Air conditioning is common in newer hotels and Airbnbs but isn't guaranteed everywhere, a point to consider for a summer trip. Public transport, particularly the metro, is efficient and incredibly cheap, though the stations themselves offer a deep dive into the Soviet past. Buildings often appear more weathered than they are – it's part of the city's aesthetic, a sort of beautiful decay.

Travelers fly into Shota Rustaveli Tbilisi International Airport (TBS), which is modern and easy to navigate. To reach the city center, the cheapest option is public bus #337, costing just 1 GEL (about $0.35 USD). It runs frequently and drops passengers directly at Freedom Square. However, after a long flight, using a ride-hailing app like Bolt is often preferred. It's incredibly affordable – usually around 25-35 GEL ($9-12 USD) – and saves the hassle of navigating with luggage. Uber Black also launched in Tbilisi in September 2024, offering a premium service for those who prefer it. Always avoid the aggressive taxi drivers who approach inside the arrivals hall; they will almost certainly overcharge.

Tbilisi is a city made for walking, especially the central districts like the Old Town and Sololaki. For longer distances, the metro is fantastic. It's clean, efficient, and costs only 1 GEL per ride. You'll need to buy a MetroMoney card at any station for 2 GEL, which you can then top up. This card also works on city buses and the Rike Park cable car. Ride-hailing via the Bolt app is a popular choice for getting around at night or when convenience is prioritized; it's cheap and reliable. Uber Black is also an option for a premium experience.

Tbilisi is generally a very safe city, even for walking alone late at night. It maintains a very low crime rate, and violent crime against tourists is rare. The biggest concern often isn't people, but cars. Drivers can be aggressive and often don't yield to pedestrians, so exercise extra caution when crossing the street. Also, be mindful of political demonstrations, which sometimes occur near the Parliament building on Rustaveli Avenue. For context, since the parliamentary elections in October 2024, Georgia has been in a prolonged political crisis, with ongoing protests against the ruling Georgian Dream party. Demonstrators allege the elections were rigged and are protesting the government's decision to suspend EU accession talks until 2028. These rallies often happen in central Tbilisi areas like Rustaveli Avenue, Chavchavadze Avenue, and Heroes' Square, starting in the evening and sometimes disrupting traffic late into the night. The government has cracked down on dissent, leading to detentions of protesters and opposition leaders, plus new laws restricting demonstrations and increasing penalties for participants. Given this, several governments (including the US, UK, and Australia) have issued travel advisories highlighting risks tied to the political climate. It's strongly recommended to avoid all political rallies and large gatherings, as tensions can escalate without warning, and confrontations between police and protesters have occurred. Foreign nationals participating in protests may face questioning or be denied re-entry. Stay informed by monitoring local media for planned protest schedules and locations. Also, avoid travel to the Russian-occupied regions of South Ossetia and Abkhazia, where risks include crime, civil unrest, unexploded landmines, and no consular assistance. While petty theft can happen in crowded areas, and there are reports of drink spiking in bars and nightclubs, the overall crime rate remains low—just be cautious and don't leave your drink unattended.